Stepping into the world of Gaziano & Girling is much like being invited into the inner sanctum of refined shoemaking craft. Their shop on Savile Row in London speaks not merely of tradition, but of evolution and resiliency. Tony Gaziano, one half of the duo behind this storied brand, embodies the spirit of innovation blended with deep respect for craftsmanship that one rarely finds in today's fast-paced world. My recent conversation with him provided an illuminating update on their operations over the past year—a year that has challenged and transformed many sectors worldwide, including bespoke shoemaking.
A Grueling Year and the Power of Adaptation
The past six months have seen Gaziano & Girling leverage their strong online presence to sustain their business, despite disruptions caused by the global situation. As Tony detailed, while their Savile Row shop operates just a couple of days a week due to quieter than usual streets, the factory has been buzzing with activity largely driven by online orders. Their prior decision to embrace digital channels has proven prescient, allowing them to maintain a connection with discerning clients worldwide who value both their ready-to-wear and bespoke offerings.
The Strength of Relationships and Craft
The key to Gaziano & Girling's continued success lies in their cultivated relationships and commitment to craft. Tony and Dean have maintained active communication with clients via emails, phone calls, and even Zoom—pioneering what might seem antithetical to the personal, tactile world of bespoke shoe fittings. Nevertheless, for clients whose shoe lasts were already well established, remote fittings have provided an interim solution, demonstrating an adaptability that is rare and commendable in this industry.
New Opportunities for Creativity
Instead of merely surviving, Gaziano & Girling have thrived creatively during this period. With the extra time afforded by lockdowns, they have expanded their collection significantly. New styles like the Bletchley—a double monk featuring a soft square toe in a marble brown effect—have been developed to ensure a broader appeal to both traditional and more contemporary tastes. Such additions highlight not only their range but also their awareness of shifting customer preferences, offering something for both the seasoned shoe aficionado and the modern gentleman.
Innovations in Classic Style
Their continuous introduction of new designs into their stock program underpins Gaziano & Girling's strategy of enticing customers with fresh styles, an approach augmented by strategic offers such as 20% off made-to-order and ready-to-wear shoes. This is complemented by their new Classics Collection, which balances accessibility and exclusivity by minimizing labor-intensive handwork without compromising on the quality of materials like oak bark soles—remarkable feats, given these shoes retail around £600.
The Dichotomy of Styles: Tradition Meets Modernity
The juxtaposition between their styles is most evident when comparing recent releases such as the Como and Ashby. The former, a youthful style available in a plethora of materials and colors, is designed on their Deco square last—a testament to their forward-thinking design ethos. Conversely, the Ashby harks back to a classical era with its cap toe design modeled after a 1940s icon, finished in a hand-painted Margot patina—a beautiful burgundy reminiscent of bespoke creations for notable clients like Charles.
Customization: Harnessing the Power of Made-to-Order
Gaziano & Girling have masterfully balanced the art of bespoke and the practicality of ready-to-wear through their expansive made-to-order options. By forgoing the need for extensive inventories, Tony and Dean can offer a robust array of models and colorways, all custom finished more swiftly than traditional bespoke timelines would allow. This model proves not only economically viable but also creatively liberating, appealing to clients' desires for customization akin to bespoke without the commitment of multiple fittings.
Adapting Bespoke in a New World
The traditional bespoke experience, deeply disrupted by travel restrictions, has been resiliently adapted by Gaziano & Girling. Though in-person fittings are irreplaceable, technology has allowed them to progress some client orders with virtual fittings. Challenges remain for new clients needing initial measurements, yet existing clients with complete lasts can continue their custom designs, albeit at a reduced pace.
Leveraging Technology for Remote Fittings
For many, the idea of conducting bespoke fittings via Zoom might raise eyebrows, yet necessity often breeds innovation. Where minor adjustments suffice, this technological bridge has enabled them to maintain bespoke services. This isn't a perfect substitute for the tactile feedback of leather and foot meeting, but it is a stopgap that demonstrates Gaziano & Girling's agile approach to business under constraints.
Exploring the Art of Stitching and Design
The artisanal stitching techniques employed by Gaziano & Girling stand as a testament to their dedication to quality. With models like the Wren, featuring hand-sewn skin stitch details on a wholecut design, they reinvigorate classic craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics. Tony's input in these designs ensures each shoe not only meets the functional demands of footwear but also serves as a canvas of artistic expression.
Innate Craftsmanship and Design Philosophy
The Wren, both a creative and technical triumph, embodies what Gaziano & Girling represent at their core—an amalgamation of antique techniques with modern design sensibilities. This sleek shoe appeals to those looking for distinctiveness without forsaking classical elegance. As part of the Deco range, it's a visual representation of what can be achieved when traditional shoemaking wisdom meets 21st-century design flair.
In exploring Gaziano & Girling's journey over the last year, I find inspiration in their resolute dedication to maintaining high standards of shoemaking. Their flexibility in operations, from leveraging online platforms to expanding and evolving their shoe offerings, showcases a business not only braced by tradition but one continually molded by innovation. Their story is a beacon of what craftsmen can achieve when they adapt without compromising their core ethos.
For those intrigued by the art of shoemaking, visiting Gaziano & Girling—whether online or in person—offers a window into the meticulous world of handcrafted elegance. It's rare to find a brand that manages to straddle the line between timeless craftsmanship and contemporary innovations so seamlessly. What Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling continue to craft are not just shoes but rather unequivocal masterpieces that invite both admiration and aspiration.
